Archive for the ‘Digital Photography’ Category
PXR5 asked:
The Sony DSC W120 is a 7 megapixel digital camera with a 4x optical zoom lens. This camera is easy to use and is small enough to fit into a pocket.
Why Buy the Sony DSC W120?
Pocket cameras tend to fall into two groups. The first is more stylish and more expensive. The second is a simpler designed cheap digital camera. Sony has set up the DSC W120 to fall into the second category. Therefore if you are looking for a digital camera from a reliable brand and don’t want to break the bank then the DSC W120 is worth taking a closer look at. This is also one of the few smaller compacts to offer a viewfinder.
Image Quality Sony DSC W120 test shots
Outdoor 1 (Medium Zoom)
My first outdoor shot gets us off to a solid start. The sharpness of the photo is above average throughout the picture with only a small amount of focusing lost as you move towards the edges of the shot. The colours are true and I like the blues on the boats.
Brightness levels are about right as well.
Outdoor 2 (No Zoom)
This is not a bad effort, but there is a loss of sharpness on the right hand side of the photo where the scene gets more distant. Although this is quite a tough shot when it comes to focusing other digital cameras have been able to cope with the set up better than the DSC W120 does.
Outdoor 3 (Maximum Zoom)
With the lens fully extend the camera produces a sharper photo. There is still some softness towards the edges, but not enough to put me off this digital camera.
Outdoor 4 (Building)
Other cameras I have tested have been able to really make the bricks on this building stand out. The DSC W120 Sony digital camera is unable to hit the same levels of sharpness.
Outdoor Portrait
This is a typical outdoor portrait shot. Although I have used a cloudy white balance setting to match the conditions I would still like to have seen more depth to the colours in this shot.
Indoor Portrait with Flash
Without a doubt this is my favourite portrait shot taken with this digital camera. What really impresses me is the amount of colour retained in the photo, especially when you consider other digital cameras I have reviewed, can produce shots that look washed out when the flash is on.
Indoor Portrait without Flash
This is another good effort. There is plenty of detail in the photo considering there is less light available than for the outdoor portrait shot.
Colours
I am happy with the colours the camera produces. They have a natural feel to them and are a fair representation of the colours in each scene when the photos were taken.
Macro
When you look through my reasons for buying the DSC W120 Sony digital camera, being able to take great macro shots will not be on the list. This is because if anyone is serious about close up work they would have to be prepared to spend a fair bit more on a digital camera than they would need to with this one. Therefore it is a bonus to note that the DSC W120 is capable of taking a decent macro shot. There are good levels of detail and clarity showing in my test picture.
ISO 400
How the camera performs at higher ISO settings depends to a large degree on the amount of light available at the time. If conditions are bright then picture quality is good. A drop off in light means a loss of quality. Therefore if you are using higher ISO to freeze movement on a bright day you will achieve better results than if you are using ISO to overcome a lack of light in a scene.
ISO 1600
Not surprisingly similar, but more extreme results occur at ISO 1600. I have seen better results from other digital cameras.
Overall
I do have one or two concerns about the levels of sharpness when scene are distant. Putting those qualms aside the DSC W120Sony digital camera does a steady job and manages to get to grips with most situations.
Shutter Lag
Most of the shutter lag times I recorded are roughly average for this type of digital camera. A single shot took 0.35 seconds and five shots took 12.38. Turning the flash on produced a fast single shot time of 0.39 seconds. Five shots took 12.38 seconds.
You can compare this camera to other models by taking a look at the Shutter Lag Comparison Table.
Style: This is a small, unfussy pocket digital camera. The DSC W120 has a fairly typical rectangular shape. It is available in silver, black, pink and blue.
Dimensions: 88.2 x 57.2 x 22.9mm
Weight: 123g
Batteries: Power is supplied by a lithium ion battery (NP-BG1). Sony suggests you should be able to take around 420 shots in between charges.
Memory cards: The camera is compatible with memory stick duo and memory stick duo pro memory cards. To get you started Sony have built 15mb of storage into the DSC W120. This is enough for around 6 shots.
Ease of use rating: The DSC W120 is quite easy to use. Most of the key controls (flash, zoom, macro and playback) are controlled through buttons on the back of the camera. The inclusion of a control dial also cuts down on the number of times you need to dip into the menu system.
Points I like:
Ease of use – price tag – viewfinder
Where it could improve:
Sharpness of distant subjects
Alternatives
A couple of alternatives with similar features are: Panasonic DMC FX35 and Olympus FE-340.
Verdict:
The Sony DSC W120 handles most snap shot situations well. It does struggle for sharpness in places once the subject gets distant. You can’t have everything at the price though and if you are looking for a cheaper pocket camera the DSC W120 still does a decent job.
Front View
Back View
Top View
Sample Menus
Sony DSC W120 Summary
Description:7 megapixels and a 4x optical zoom lens
Ease of Use:9
Features:8
Colour:8
Macro:8
Indoors:8
Value for Money:8
Style:8
Movie Mode:8
Image Quality:7
Build Quality:8
Total:80
Verdict:
“This is a steady, pocket sized digital camera. It is one of the cheaper small compacts from a leading brand. The camera is easy to use and the emphasis has been placed on point and shoot simplicity rather than more advanced features.”
Review Date:
April 2008
The Sony DSC W120 is a 7 megapixel digital camera with a 4x optical zoom lens. This camera is easy to use and is small enough to fit into a pocket.
Why Buy the Sony DSC W120?
Pocket cameras tend to fall into two groups. The first is more stylish and more expensive. The second is a simpler designed cheap digital camera. Sony has set up the DSC W120 to fall into the second category. Therefore if you are looking for a digital camera from a reliable brand and don’t want to break the bank then the DSC W120 is worth taking a closer look at. This is also one of the few smaller compacts to offer a viewfinder.
Image Quality Sony DSC W120 test shots
Outdoor 1 (Medium Zoom)
My first outdoor shot gets us off to a solid start. The sharpness of the photo is above average throughout the picture with only a small amount of focusing lost as you move towards the edges of the shot. The colours are true and I like the blues on the boats.
Brightness levels are about right as well.
Outdoor 2 (No Zoom)
This is not a bad effort, but there is a loss of sharpness on the right hand side of the photo where the scene gets more distant. Although this is quite a tough shot when it comes to focusing other digital cameras have been able to cope with the set up better than the DSC W120 does.
Outdoor 3 (Maximum Zoom)
With the lens fully extend the camera produces a sharper photo. There is still some softness towards the edges, but not enough to put me off this digital camera.
Outdoor 4 (Building)
Other cameras I have tested have been able to really make the bricks on this building stand out. The DSC W120 Sony digital camera is unable to hit the same levels of sharpness.
Outdoor Portrait
This is a typical outdoor portrait shot. Although I have used a cloudy white balance setting to match the conditions I would still like to have seen more depth to the colours in this shot.
Indoor Portrait with Flash
Without a doubt this is my favourite portrait shot taken with this digital camera. What really impresses me is the amount of colour retained in the photo, especially when you consider other digital cameras I have reviewed, can produce shots that look washed out when the flash is on.
Indoor Portrait without Flash
This is another good effort. There is plenty of detail in the photo considering there is less light available than for the outdoor portrait shot.
Colours
I am happy with the colours the camera produces. They have a natural feel to them and are a fair representation of the colours in each scene when the photos were taken.
Macro
When you look through my reasons for buying the DSC W120 Sony digital camera, being able to take great macro shots will not be on the list. This is because if anyone is serious about close up work they would have to be prepared to spend a fair bit more on a digital camera than they would need to with this one. Therefore it is a bonus to note that the DSC W120 is capable of taking a decent macro shot. There are good levels of detail and clarity showing in my test picture.
ISO 400
How the camera performs at higher ISO settings depends to a large degree on the amount of light available at the time. If conditions are bright then picture quality is good. A drop off in light means a loss of quality. Therefore if you are using higher ISO to freeze movement on a bright day you will achieve better results than if you are using ISO to overcome a lack of light in a scene.
ISO 1600
Not surprisingly similar, but more extreme results occur at ISO 1600. I have seen better results from other digital cameras.
Overall
I do have one or two concerns about the levels of sharpness when scene are distant. Putting those qualms aside the DSC W120Sony digital camera does a steady job and manages to get to grips with most situations.
Shutter Lag
Most of the shutter lag times I recorded are roughly average for this type of digital camera. A single shot took 0.35 seconds and five shots took 12.38. Turning the flash on produced a fast single shot time of 0.39 seconds. Five shots took 12.38 seconds.
You can compare this camera to other models by taking a look at the Shutter Lag Comparison Table.
Style: This is a small, unfussy pocket digital camera. The DSC W120 has a fairly typical rectangular shape. It is available in silver, black, pink and blue.
Dimensions: 88.2 x 57.2 x 22.9mm
Weight: 123g
Batteries: Power is supplied by a lithium ion battery (NP-BG1). Sony suggests you should be able to take around 420 shots in between charges.
Memory cards: The camera is compatible with memory stick duo and memory stick duo pro memory cards. To get you started Sony have built 15mb of storage into the DSC W120. This is enough for around 6 shots.
Ease of use rating: The DSC W120 is quite easy to use. Most of the key controls (flash, zoom, macro and playback) are controlled through buttons on the back of the camera. The inclusion of a control dial also cuts down on the number of times you need to dip into the menu system.
Points I like:
Ease of use – price tag – viewfinder
Where it could improve:
Sharpness of distant subjects
Alternatives
A couple of alternatives with similar features are: Panasonic DMC FX35 and Olympus FE-340.
Verdict:
The Sony DSC W120 handles most snap shot situations well. It does struggle for sharpness in places once the subject gets distant. You can’t have everything at the price though and if you are looking for a cheaper pocket camera the DSC W120 still does a decent job.
Front View
Back View
Top View
Sample Menus
Sony DSC W120 Summary
Description:7 megapixels and a 4x optical zoom lens
Ease of Use:9
Features:8
Colour:8
Macro:8
Indoors:8
Value for Money:8
Style:8
Movie Mode:8
Image Quality:7
Build Quality:8
Total:80
Verdict:
“This is a steady, pocket sized digital camera. It is one of the cheaper small compacts from a leading brand. The camera is easy to use and the emphasis has been placed on point and shoot simplicity rather than more advanced features.”
Review Date:
April 2008
Filed under Digital Photography
Scott Karcich asked:
When shopping for a Digital SLR Camera people often overlook or skimp on the camera’s lenses. Camera Lenses serve as the digital SLR cameras “eye,” the lens determines what and how your camera will see your subject and how well that view is transmitted to the camera’s sensor chip for recording. The way I like to look at camera lenses is as painter’s brushes, broad strokes, medium stokes, all purpose brushes, and small detail brushes. There is a lot to learn about digital slr camera lenses and this article will serve as a basic outline to understanding them. The following sections explain the basic types of digital SLR camera lenses, how they work, and how to select them.
Focal Length
On a digital SLR camera the focal length of the lenses measures the distance between the lens and the image sensor, measured in millimeters. Lenses can be classified into subgroups like prime, macro, wide angle, normal, telephoto, and zoom lenses. They are also rated in regards to f-stop or speed an example would be a F2.0 50mm lens or a 1.4F 80 mm lens. We will explain this later in this article.
Prime Lenses:
Prime lenses are fixed focal length lenses like a 50mm 1.4f lens. To zoom with these types of lenses you need to use your feet and to get closer or farther away from the subject. Traditionally prime lenses are sharper and faster then zoom lenses. If you’re on a budget you can pick up some amazing used older prime lenses off eBay or your local camera store.
Macro Lenses:
Marco Lenses are your detail brushes they enable you to get up close and personal with your subject. These types of lenses are used for extreme close ups on small objects like daisies, pennies, and food but not limited to these types of subjects. Examples of macro lenses are 50mm and 100 mm macros. These lenses are also great for selective focus types of photos.
Wide-angle Lenses:
Wide-angle lenses are your broad stroke brushes; these types of lenses have short focal lengths. The short focal length has the visual effect of “pushing” the subject away from you and making it appear smaller. The beauty of wide-angle lenses is you can be relatively close to your subject and fit a broad stroke of the background into the scene.
One problem with wide-angle lenses is known as convergence, a distortion that makes vertical structures appear to lean toward the center of the frame. A way to check if the wide-angle lenses you are interested in has convergence is to take test pictures before buying the lens. With high quality wide angles lenses like Canon “L” series lenses address this convergence issue well. Examples of wide-angle lenses are 15MM, 17mm, 24mm and 28mm lenses.
Normal Lenses:
Normal Lenses try to mimic how the human eye sees and are some of the most versatile lenses you can use. These are my all purpose brushes, and are somewhere between a wide angle and a telephoto lenses. If you buy just one lens try and buy the fastest normal lenses you can like a 50mm 1.4f lenses. Some examples of normal lenses are 35mm; 50mm, 65mm and some consider a 80mm a normal lens.
Telephoto Lenses:
Lenses with long focal lengths 100mm and higher are called telephoto lenses. A long focal length seems to bring the subject closer to you and increases the subject’s size in the frame. Telephoto lenses also give your subjects a graphic look and flatten out your subject. These lenses are my short stroke brushes.
Zoom Lenses:
Zoom lenses are special because they can be very versatile. These types of lenses vary in their focal lengths and come in many in wide-angle, telephoto, and wide-angle to telephoto. In my bag I carry a 17mm to 35mm my wide–angle broad brush, 24mm to 70mm my medium brush, and a 80mm to 200mm my short brush. With these three lenses I get a very board range of focal lengths for any situation. All of my zooms are at least f2.8 through out the lenses range, which means my f-stop can stay constant while I am zooming in and out. These types of lenses are very expensive but so get what you pay for. When shopping for a zoom lenses check out the f-stop range rating. An example is a 24mm to 300mm f3.5-f5.6 lenses meaning the lowest f-stop you can shoot is at the 24mm range of the lenses and when you zoom to 200mm the lowest you can go is f5.6. Zoom lenses can give you flexibility and versatility all in one lenses. When buying a zoom lens try and get one that is made of glass and is the fastest you can afford, you will not regret it.
Understanding what these different groups of lenses can do will help you make more informed decisions on what lenses to purchase and what to put in your camera bag.
When shopping for a Digital SLR Camera people often overlook or skimp on the camera’s lenses. Camera Lenses serve as the digital SLR cameras “eye,” the lens determines what and how your camera will see your subject and how well that view is transmitted to the camera’s sensor chip for recording. The way I like to look at camera lenses is as painter’s brushes, broad strokes, medium stokes, all purpose brushes, and small detail brushes. There is a lot to learn about digital slr camera lenses and this article will serve as a basic outline to understanding them. The following sections explain the basic types of digital SLR camera lenses, how they work, and how to select them.
Focal Length
On a digital SLR camera the focal length of the lenses measures the distance between the lens and the image sensor, measured in millimeters. Lenses can be classified into subgroups like prime, macro, wide angle, normal, telephoto, and zoom lenses. They are also rated in regards to f-stop or speed an example would be a F2.0 50mm lens or a 1.4F 80 mm lens. We will explain this later in this article.
Prime Lenses:
Prime lenses are fixed focal length lenses like a 50mm 1.4f lens. To zoom with these types of lenses you need to use your feet and to get closer or farther away from the subject. Traditionally prime lenses are sharper and faster then zoom lenses. If you’re on a budget you can pick up some amazing used older prime lenses off eBay or your local camera store.
Macro Lenses:
Marco Lenses are your detail brushes they enable you to get up close and personal with your subject. These types of lenses are used for extreme close ups on small objects like daisies, pennies, and food but not limited to these types of subjects. Examples of macro lenses are 50mm and 100 mm macros. These lenses are also great for selective focus types of photos.
Wide-angle Lenses:
Wide-angle lenses are your broad stroke brushes; these types of lenses have short focal lengths. The short focal length has the visual effect of “pushing” the subject away from you and making it appear smaller. The beauty of wide-angle lenses is you can be relatively close to your subject and fit a broad stroke of the background into the scene.
One problem with wide-angle lenses is known as convergence, a distortion that makes vertical structures appear to lean toward the center of the frame. A way to check if the wide-angle lenses you are interested in has convergence is to take test pictures before buying the lens. With high quality wide angles lenses like Canon “L” series lenses address this convergence issue well. Examples of wide-angle lenses are 15MM, 17mm, 24mm and 28mm lenses.
Normal Lenses:
Normal Lenses try to mimic how the human eye sees and are some of the most versatile lenses you can use. These are my all purpose brushes, and are somewhere between a wide angle and a telephoto lenses. If you buy just one lens try and buy the fastest normal lenses you can like a 50mm 1.4f lenses. Some examples of normal lenses are 35mm; 50mm, 65mm and some consider a 80mm a normal lens.
Telephoto Lenses:
Lenses with long focal lengths 100mm and higher are called telephoto lenses. A long focal length seems to bring the subject closer to you and increases the subject’s size in the frame. Telephoto lenses also give your subjects a graphic look and flatten out your subject. These lenses are my short stroke brushes.
Zoom Lenses:
Zoom lenses are special because they can be very versatile. These types of lenses vary in their focal lengths and come in many in wide-angle, telephoto, and wide-angle to telephoto. In my bag I carry a 17mm to 35mm my wide–angle broad brush, 24mm to 70mm my medium brush, and a 80mm to 200mm my short brush. With these three lenses I get a very board range of focal lengths for any situation. All of my zooms are at least f2.8 through out the lenses range, which means my f-stop can stay constant while I am zooming in and out. These types of lenses are very expensive but so get what you pay for. When shopping for a zoom lenses check out the f-stop range rating. An example is a 24mm to 300mm f3.5-f5.6 lenses meaning the lowest f-stop you can shoot is at the 24mm range of the lenses and when you zoom to 200mm the lowest you can go is f5.6. Zoom lenses can give you flexibility and versatility all in one lenses. When buying a zoom lens try and get one that is made of glass and is the fastest you can afford, you will not regret it.
Understanding what these different groups of lenses can do will help you make more informed decisions on what lenses to purchase and what to put in your camera bag.
Filed under Digital Photography
Scott Karcich asked:
Shooting your photos digitally can be fun and easy but to get constant and consistent results you will need to learn how to sett up your camera properly. If you just starting out in with digital slr cameras we suggest starting out with a used digital slr camera, the cost to entry is more less and you get a better options than your traditional point and shoot digital camera. Every digital SLR camera is different but they all have camera setting as a menu items. We have created eight general tips that should help you start towards to road of constant and consistent results with your photography. So if you want great shots out of your used digital camera learn these seven tips backwards and forwards.
1. Adjust white balance manually to account for lighting conditions (especially fluorescent light)
2. Carry a small gray or white card with you to help you set the white balance.
3. Use a higher ISO rating to account for lower light conditions (Be careful not to go to high because the higher the ISO the higher/more the noise/grain)
4. Use Aperture and Shutter Priority modes to keep backgrounds in focus (aperture mode) or freeze fast-moving action shots (shutter priority)
5. Use Full Manual Mode to set both aperture and shutter modes together (though this can get complicated, use your histogram to judge the sweet spot)
6. Try burst mode to capture a bunch of shots, rapid-fire
7. Use histogram displays to quickly check if you have overexposed a shot
8. Use exposure bracketing to try the same shot at different exposure levels to find the one that ultimately looks best.
These tips will take some time to master. Be patient, persistent, and experiment you will be happy that you did.
Shooting your photos digitally can be fun and easy but to get constant and consistent results you will need to learn how to sett up your camera properly. If you just starting out in with digital slr cameras we suggest starting out with a used digital slr camera, the cost to entry is more less and you get a better options than your traditional point and shoot digital camera. Every digital SLR camera is different but they all have camera setting as a menu items. We have created eight general tips that should help you start towards to road of constant and consistent results with your photography. So if you want great shots out of your used digital camera learn these seven tips backwards and forwards.
1. Adjust white balance manually to account for lighting conditions (especially fluorescent light)
2. Carry a small gray or white card with you to help you set the white balance.
3. Use a higher ISO rating to account for lower light conditions (Be careful not to go to high because the higher the ISO the higher/more the noise/grain)
4. Use Aperture and Shutter Priority modes to keep backgrounds in focus (aperture mode) or freeze fast-moving action shots (shutter priority)
5. Use Full Manual Mode to set both aperture and shutter modes together (though this can get complicated, use your histogram to judge the sweet spot)
6. Try burst mode to capture a bunch of shots, rapid-fire
7. Use histogram displays to quickly check if you have overexposed a shot
8. Use exposure bracketing to try the same shot at different exposure levels to find the one that ultimately looks best.
These tips will take some time to master. Be patient, persistent, and experiment you will be happy that you did.
Filed under Digital Photography
Dave Simpson asked:
The Nikon D70 SLR is ideally suited to Digital Infrared Photography mainly due to the power of its custom settings. I’m going to take a few moments to show you what camera settings I use for my digital infrared photos and hopefully help you get the best results from your Nikon digital SLR.
First thing – get a tripod, this is pretty much a must for perfect infrared shots, and the infrared filter of your choice – I like the Hoya R72.
Next, take some time to plan your digital infrared photograph. Taking the time to do this upfront will help eliminate some of the uncertainties of digital infrared photography, which can result in only an ok photo, rather than a WOW! photo.
As always with these kinds of things, there is no one right way to achieve results. But these steps are the ones that I have had the most success with, using my D70 so far.
Image Type
For digital infrared photography I really prefer to shoot in RAW mode. Although Nikons native NEF format is so versatile, it just doesn’t come up to the high quality of RAW mode, and any imperfections can always be edited out using Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro.
ISO
Good results can be achieved by increasing the ISO setting, but I’ve had the best results when I leave it at 200. Otherwise the noise is just too great – at least in my opinion. I also do a fair amount of post processing in Photo shop , so noise is a problem when working at higher magnifications. Remember, unlike infrared film, where the graininess is part of the look and feel of the image, digital infrared “grain” or noise really degrades your image. If you want to add the look of grainy film, do it in Photoshop, or other image-editing program.
White Balance
In my experience, setting a custom white balance is a key to GOOD Digital Infrared Photography with the Nikon d70. Because you are using a filter that blocks most “regular” light, the camera’s internal white balancing mechanism cannot provide you with an accurate measurement of the colour temperature of your environment. Since foliage reflects IR light, making it the brightest, whitest part of your photo, you’ll need to “calibrate” your D70 to let it know that visible light green is equal to infrared white.
There are a couple of ways to do this.
NUMBER 1: The simplest white balance method using the D70 is to open your menu, use the control button to flip down to the white balance setting, and change it to fluorescent +3. Since for infrared photography you’ll be most likely shooting in bright sunlight with a “red” filter, adding some false color correction in the camera, seems to give your final IR images more “punch.” I have also found the incandescent setting works too.
NUMBER 2: Another way to adjust white balance for digital infrared photography with the Nikon D70 is to take a photo of green grass at midday in full sun. Just the grass – no feet, no trees, no sky. Just point your camera at the grass looking straight down, and click! Now, in your menu, you’ll set the white balance from this photo. So, go to your menu, select white balance, >preset> use photo>select image> use your control dial to navigate to the image of the grass (hopefully it is the only one on your card to make it easy). Your menu should now say “this image>set.” Now you’re ready to shoot infrared!
The Nikon D70 SLR is ideally suited to Digital Infrared Photography mainly due to the power of its custom settings. I’m going to take a few moments to show you what camera settings I use for my digital infrared photos and hopefully help you get the best results from your Nikon digital SLR.
First thing – get a tripod, this is pretty much a must for perfect infrared shots, and the infrared filter of your choice – I like the Hoya R72.
Next, take some time to plan your digital infrared photograph. Taking the time to do this upfront will help eliminate some of the uncertainties of digital infrared photography, which can result in only an ok photo, rather than a WOW! photo.
As always with these kinds of things, there is no one right way to achieve results. But these steps are the ones that I have had the most success with, using my D70 so far.
Image Type
For digital infrared photography I really prefer to shoot in RAW mode. Although Nikons native NEF format is so versatile, it just doesn’t come up to the high quality of RAW mode, and any imperfections can always be edited out using Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro.
ISO
Good results can be achieved by increasing the ISO setting, but I’ve had the best results when I leave it at 200. Otherwise the noise is just too great – at least in my opinion. I also do a fair amount of post processing in Photo shop , so noise is a problem when working at higher magnifications. Remember, unlike infrared film, where the graininess is part of the look and feel of the image, digital infrared “grain” or noise really degrades your image. If you want to add the look of grainy film, do it in Photoshop, or other image-editing program.
White Balance
In my experience, setting a custom white balance is a key to GOOD Digital Infrared Photography with the Nikon d70. Because you are using a filter that blocks most “regular” light, the camera’s internal white balancing mechanism cannot provide you with an accurate measurement of the colour temperature of your environment. Since foliage reflects IR light, making it the brightest, whitest part of your photo, you’ll need to “calibrate” your D70 to let it know that visible light green is equal to infrared white.
There are a couple of ways to do this.
NUMBER 1: The simplest white balance method using the D70 is to open your menu, use the control button to flip down to the white balance setting, and change it to fluorescent +3. Since for infrared photography you’ll be most likely shooting in bright sunlight with a “red” filter, adding some false color correction in the camera, seems to give your final IR images more “punch.” I have also found the incandescent setting works too.
NUMBER 2: Another way to adjust white balance for digital infrared photography with the Nikon D70 is to take a photo of green grass at midday in full sun. Just the grass – no feet, no trees, no sky. Just point your camera at the grass looking straight down, and click! Now, in your menu, you’ll set the white balance from this photo. So, go to your menu, select white balance, >preset> use photo>select image> use your control dial to navigate to the image of the grass (hopefully it is the only one on your card to make it easy). Your menu should now say “this image>set.” Now you’re ready to shoot infrared!
Filed under Digital Photography
Scott Karcich asked:
Digital SLR cameras are amazing tools to expand your creativity and to document special moments. If your starting out and strive to improve your work master these five important tips. These tips deal with the relationship of shutter speed and focal length, achieving proper focus, stability, handling backlighting, and the effects of ISO and noise.
Understanding how the focal length of your lenses relates to the shutter speed you are shooting with.
If your shooting with a 50mm lenses the rule of thumb is that you can hand hold your camera with shutter speeds of 1/50th of a second and higher. With a 200mm lenses that it’s 1/200th of a second. With expensive image stabilization lenses you can hand hold a 200mmm at about 1/100th of a second maybe 1/60th of a second if you have steady hands. One trick I have used to squeeze an extra shutter speed stop while hand holding my camera is holding my breath and keeping my arm tight close to my chest. Knowing your lenses and remembering this simple tip should yield sharper results in your photos while hand holding your digital SLR camera.
Understanding the focus system in your camera
Practically every digital SLR camera focuses when you press the shutter button halfway down. Usually you will hear a beep and see a green or red square through the viewfinder. This is what the camera is focusing on. Then press the button the rest of the way down to take the picture. Understand that the computer inside the camera is looking at differences in image contrast and that difference is what is focusing the camera. Most digital SLR cameras also let you change the focus point manually to anywhere there is a predetermined point in the viewfinder. At a minimum you will get 9 points of focus up to 45 points of focus. It depends on the model and make of your digital SLR camera.
While executing my day-to-day shooting I always start with my focus point in the center of the viewfinder then I move it according to the subject I am shooting. It is easy to forget about where you set your focus point and then wonder why your photos are off focus or out of focus. So when you start a shoot the first place to check is where your focus point is and then center it, this should help you get more shots in focus.
Stability and when to use a tripod
If you are dealing with long exposures when shooting or if the shutter speed exceeds the focal length, then you need to use a tripod. All tripods are not the same. If in the studio a lightweight tripod can be used effectively if you weigh it down with sandbag or an alterative weighting device. When outdoors use a tripod on the heavier side is probably best, it also depending on weather condition. If there is a lot of wind you really need to secure the tripod with weight or some tripods even have a feature where you can spike them in the ground for more stability.
Any movement during a shot with a long exposure will almost always render that shot useless and that is why stability is so important. One of the newest advancements in camera technology is “image stabilization” in both lenses and camera bodies. This new technology is great and its best used if shooting with two hands on the camera and bracing your body against something. Still in some shooting situations there is still no replacement for a good weighted tripod.
How to handle strong backlighting
Backlighting subjects can be our enemy. Many people try to shoot a photo with a strong bright window light in the background, and then wonder why the shot didn’t come out. Why does this happen? The bright light from the window floods the lens, and your camera usually can’t compensate for it. One way to combat this is to use a fill flash on your subject or use a large white fill card. Another option is to diffuse the strong window light and fill the subject with a white fill card. Do not be afraid of backlighting use it to your advantage, just remember you need to counteract a strong backlight with a strong fill.
Understanding the effects of ISO in Digital SLR Cameras
Digital SLR cameras have some of the same characteristics as film SLR Cameras like interchangeable lenses, viewfinders, matrix metering, etc, but they do not handle ISO the same way. They are similar in that the relative ISO setting handles the light sensitivity that reaches the sensor or film. Where they differ is in the look they achieve in the final product. High ISO speeds on film have a certain film grain look to them that can be pleasing, but high ISO speeds on a digital SLR camera creates noise on the files and the look is not the same as film grain. In most situations noise is your enemy. If you want that film grain look, shoot your digital photos with the lowest possible ISO and then use Alien Skins Exposure® 2 plug in for Photoshop to achieve that film grain look.
In closing mastering these five tips will make your photography stronger, sharper, in focus and properly lit.
Digital SLR cameras are amazing tools to expand your creativity and to document special moments. If your starting out and strive to improve your work master these five important tips. These tips deal with the relationship of shutter speed and focal length, achieving proper focus, stability, handling backlighting, and the effects of ISO and noise.
Understanding how the focal length of your lenses relates to the shutter speed you are shooting with.
If your shooting with a 50mm lenses the rule of thumb is that you can hand hold your camera with shutter speeds of 1/50th of a second and higher. With a 200mm lenses that it’s 1/200th of a second. With expensive image stabilization lenses you can hand hold a 200mmm at about 1/100th of a second maybe 1/60th of a second if you have steady hands. One trick I have used to squeeze an extra shutter speed stop while hand holding my camera is holding my breath and keeping my arm tight close to my chest. Knowing your lenses and remembering this simple tip should yield sharper results in your photos while hand holding your digital SLR camera.
Understanding the focus system in your camera
Practically every digital SLR camera focuses when you press the shutter button halfway down. Usually you will hear a beep and see a green or red square through the viewfinder. This is what the camera is focusing on. Then press the button the rest of the way down to take the picture. Understand that the computer inside the camera is looking at differences in image contrast and that difference is what is focusing the camera. Most digital SLR cameras also let you change the focus point manually to anywhere there is a predetermined point in the viewfinder. At a minimum you will get 9 points of focus up to 45 points of focus. It depends on the model and make of your digital SLR camera.
While executing my day-to-day shooting I always start with my focus point in the center of the viewfinder then I move it according to the subject I am shooting. It is easy to forget about where you set your focus point and then wonder why your photos are off focus or out of focus. So when you start a shoot the first place to check is where your focus point is and then center it, this should help you get more shots in focus.
Stability and when to use a tripod
If you are dealing with long exposures when shooting or if the shutter speed exceeds the focal length, then you need to use a tripod. All tripods are not the same. If in the studio a lightweight tripod can be used effectively if you weigh it down with sandbag or an alterative weighting device. When outdoors use a tripod on the heavier side is probably best, it also depending on weather condition. If there is a lot of wind you really need to secure the tripod with weight or some tripods even have a feature where you can spike them in the ground for more stability.
Any movement during a shot with a long exposure will almost always render that shot useless and that is why stability is so important. One of the newest advancements in camera technology is “image stabilization” in both lenses and camera bodies. This new technology is great and its best used if shooting with two hands on the camera and bracing your body against something. Still in some shooting situations there is still no replacement for a good weighted tripod.
How to handle strong backlighting
Backlighting subjects can be our enemy. Many people try to shoot a photo with a strong bright window light in the background, and then wonder why the shot didn’t come out. Why does this happen? The bright light from the window floods the lens, and your camera usually can’t compensate for it. One way to combat this is to use a fill flash on your subject or use a large white fill card. Another option is to diffuse the strong window light and fill the subject with a white fill card. Do not be afraid of backlighting use it to your advantage, just remember you need to counteract a strong backlight with a strong fill.
Understanding the effects of ISO in Digital SLR Cameras
Digital SLR cameras have some of the same characteristics as film SLR Cameras like interchangeable lenses, viewfinders, matrix metering, etc, but they do not handle ISO the same way. They are similar in that the relative ISO setting handles the light sensitivity that reaches the sensor or film. Where they differ is in the look they achieve in the final product. High ISO speeds on film have a certain film grain look to them that can be pleasing, but high ISO speeds on a digital SLR camera creates noise on the files and the look is not the same as film grain. In most situations noise is your enemy. If you want that film grain look, shoot your digital photos with the lowest possible ISO and then use Alien Skins Exposure® 2 plug in for Photoshop to achieve that film grain look.
In closing mastering these five tips will make your photography stronger, sharper, in focus and properly lit.
Filed under Digital Photography